The Indasala Cave
was the setting for one of the Buddha’s most profound discourses, the Sakapanha
Sutta (D.II,263). In the discourse the Buddha addresses Pancasikha who is
playing his harp and Sakya, also known as Indra. The
discourse must have been a popular one in ancient times given how many
depictions of the cave with the Buddha in it and Pancasikha standing nearby have survived to today. The stone railing at
Bodh Gaya, the oldest surviving Buddhist art (150 BCE ?), includes a depiction
of the scene.
Following Cunningham, I located
the Indasala Cave in 1986, included it
in my 1992 book Middle Land Middle Way; A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Buddha’s India
and since then pilgrim’s have started
visiting the place again. But now a
website called Nalanda Insatiable in
Offering (from now on NIO) is
claiming another location for the cave.
Don’t let NIO’s strange name put you off; it is a carefully researched and informative resource
on the lesser known sites associated with the Buddha. According
to NIO the cave is actually on a hill named Pawati some 20 k north-east from Giriek
at the very end of the Rajgir hills. I
visited Pawati during one of my journeys through Bihar years ago but failed to see the cave. It is a
rather attractive place but is its cave the Indasala? NIO’s claim is base mainly on the fact that
Pawati a steep-sided hill rising suddenly out of the surrounding plain and Xuanzang’s
account of his visit to the cave says that it was on the side of “an isolated hill”. NIO has followed Samual Beal’s 1884 pioneering
but inaccurate translation of Xuanzang’s travelogue. Unfortunately, the
original Chinese says nothing about the hill being “isolated”, as Li Rongxi’s
more accurate translation of 1996 shows. This, I think undermines NIO’s claim
and thus we can still consider the earlier (Cunningham’s and my own) identification
to be the true Indasala
Cave. So if the cave on
Pawati Hill is not the Indasala what is
it? According to Udana 39 there was another cave near Rajagaha called Kapotakandara,
the Pigeon’s Cave. Now another word for pigeon in Pali/Sanskrit is paravata which becomes parawa in Hindi. I suspect that Pawati
is a contraction of parawata and that
the cave on Pawati Hill is actually the Pigeon’s Cave.
You can find the NIO website at
The top photo is of Pawati Hill and the second is of me in the Indasala Cave in 1986
Below are some ancient depictions of the Buddha delivering
the Sakapanha Sutta. The last sculpture has some wild animals charming over the
rocks around the Indasala
Cave; a delightful touch.
Wonderful! Another fine Dhamma Musing.
ReplyDeleteDear Bhante, I used your guide to find the Indasala Cave in 2009. I wrote about it in my blog. There are photos too. http://kalyaano.blogspot.com.au/2009/12/india-kolkata-bodhgaya-gaya-rajgir.html
ReplyDeleteI feel privileged to have been able to be a pilgrim there. It is a very special place. May you be happy, well and peaceful. Michael
Dear Bhanteji,
ReplyDeleteThe indrasaila guha site is now ready. Government of Bihar has now made it a protected site and has created nice access to the sacred cave.
you may see the pictures on my blog.
http://nalanda-onthemove.blogspot.in/2015/06/parwati-hill-indrasailaguha-from-dream.html
regards
deepak anand