Given the time that has passed since they were first created (10th–12thcenturies) and Burma’s climate, it is astonishing just how many of Pagan’s hundreds of amazing temples still have their murals intact. And in some temples the surface area painted is very extensive indeed. Despite a limited palate of only five or six colours, a deep faith and a creative sense enabled the artists to do a lot. Although the subject of all the murals is religious the artists were imaginative enough to be able to include numerous depictions of ‘ordinary’ life – court rituals, market scenes, landscapes, boat races, parades, etc. I was fortunate enough to visit many of the painted temples with Sarah Shaw (Jataka specialist from Oxford) and Elizabeth Howard-Moore (ancient SE Asian city historian from SOAS). What a difference it makes when you are with those who can explain what you are seeing. At the Gubyaukgyi Temple we had a good deal of fun trying to identify some of the 550 Jatakas depicted there. Here are some of the pictures I took of the murals.